Some of the cameras on this list - Contax's G and T line ◊ are insanely expensive these days, but the reason they got expensive is that the nerdy film photographers in 2010 (rightly) said that they were excellent. Sometimes, the price is still justifiable and at least feels rational. Now, there are a small handful that - through the hype, celebrity endorsement, or general excellence - have become quite expensive. Just about all of the mechanical ailments of vintage cameras can be fixed with a reasonably affordable CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) service from any good camera repair shop.Ĭost: There was a time when all film cameras were fairly cheap.
Things that get in the way are finicky electronics (common on compact cameras from the 90s) and age. Reliability: Really the only other thing that a film camera has to do is work. Red flags with those are (generally) zoom lenses and lenses without a fixed wide aperture - think 24-70 f/4.5-5.6. For interchangeable-lens cameras, this is pretty easy, but where you'll have to be savvy is with point-and-shoot or fixed lens cameras. Great lenses: They're basically the only thing that can make one 35mm film camera "sharper" or "higher resolution" or "tonally" better than another. So, what that really means is that all great film cameras (especially when looking for vintage or used examples) share the same few things: At its most basic form, all the camera body really does is hold the lens and provide a light-proof box for the film to live in. The great news when it comes to film cameras (and 35mm cameras especially) is that the "sensor" or the medium actually recording the images is the same across all of them. I never really moved to digital, but I do recognize its usefullness, ie: my Nikon P-7000.What to Look for When Buying a Used Film Camera I hope this information is helpful.įinally, I enjoy each issue of this digital magazine the contributions everyone make. I use it on a tripod, but I still use in on night shots in Chicago.Īs noted earlier, I use the big brothet of the Nikon FE and would not hesitate to use the FE as my backup camera. I started in amature fashion runway photography and later graduated to mediumn format using a 500-CM. The section on use of light and the ZONE system information has servrd me well, especially in black/white photography. The complete set from Time Life books served as my book source. My training in photigrapht started with my cousin Jim, who wad my mentor.
NIKON 35MM CAMERA MANUAL
I also carry a Nikon P-7000 as my digital camera which I can use in manual mode if required. This camera is about 40 years old and and can be used without a battery if required. My pocket 35 mm is an Olympus 35-RC and this camera is usually with me. Using cameras which are dependent on electronics can be tempermental in wet jungle and rain forests. It is always smart to have a camera which can be used manually and without a battery. I am retired now, but both of my camerasa have been to the botyom of the Grand Canyon, Death Valley, Mongolia and the high County of China and Napal, and the wetlands of India and Viet-Nam Both cameras over the past 36 years have operated flawlessly, although I take good care of them. My backup Nikon is a 35 mm Nikkormat EL-W. The F2-S meters red l8ghts are easy to read in any light level. You will pay a little more for a Nikon F2-S, but you will have a little more luck seeing the meter during low light shots. I miss Kodachrome 25 and am now experimenting with Fugi slide film for long exposures during night city shots in downtown Chicago. The LEDS in the light meter allow extreem low-light photography. I purchased a Nikon F2-S and never looked bqck. Good review of the Nikon FE as a good choice for an above aversger 35 mm for beginners.
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